Founder & Medical Director at New York Cosmetic Skin & Laser Surgery Center
Answered 3 months ago
In my dermatology practice, niacinamide is a workhorse ingredient. It is vitamin B3 in a skin friendly form. It supports ceramide production, calms inflammation, and strengthens the barrier, so it fits dry, sensitive, and acne prone skin. In a 2025 cosmetic study, a niacinamide cream increased hydration from 32.15 to 39.09 on corneometry (p = 0.0365), and 81.2% of users reported less discoloration (p = 0.0407). For daily use, I start most patients at 2% to 5%. Go higher only if you tolerate it well. It can reduce oil and the look of pores over time, which helps acne. Avoid it if it triggers flushing, stinging, or dermatitis, which I see more with rosacea or a damaged barrier. A randomized melasma regimen used 5% niacinamide with good tolerance.
Niacinamide is a multi-functional active cosmetic ingredient that helps protect the skin's natural lipid barrier. Niacinamide is beneficial for all skin types in many ways - primarily by preventing pigment transfer into skin cells, preventing or reducing dark spots, reducing irritation and redness associated with inflammation, and enhancing the formation of structural proteins, resulting in smoother, stronger skin. Niacinamide is a great option for anyone who wants to repair their skin barrier or improve their skin tone. It's compatible with hyaluronic acid and retinol and can be incorporated into most skincare routines. That said, anyone who has extremely sensitive or reactive skin should not use products containing high concentrations of niacinamide, generally over 10%. In these cases, it's a good idea to do a patch test first to make sure you don't have a reaction. A 5% concentration is a very effective and safe level for daily use, and research shows that it significantly improves the appearance of fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and yellow skin over 12 weeks, with minimal risk of adverse reactions. Can niacinamide help with acne, enlarged pores, and oily skin? Yes! Niacinamide helps treat acne by reducing the skin's inflammatory response to the acne bacteria and regulating the amount of oil the sebaceous glands produce. By improving the oil-water balance of the skin, Niacinamide prevents pores from becoming distorted from excess oil and debris buildup and reduces oily shine throughout the day.
Niacinamide is a stable, water-soluble version of Vitamin B3, also called nicotinamide. It acts as a precursor for several vital cofactors involved in cellular repair. Niacinamide helps hydrate dry skin by stimulating ceramide production to improve moisture retention. For oily skin, it normalizes lipids, and for sensitive or mature skin, it is a potent antioxidant that helps to reduce redness and protects against environmental oxidative damage. Most people can get good results from niacinamide because it is non-acidic and therefore much less likely to cause irritation than other active ingredients, like retinoids. Niacinamide is also suggested for people with rosacea, hyperpigmented skin, or an impaired skin barrier. The only people who should avoid using niacinamide are those who have documented, rare hypersensitivity to Vitamin B3, or those who get a "flush" reaction to high concentrations of L-Ascorbic acid when using these products at the same time. In low pH environments, these two can react with one another. A safe and effective concentration of niacinamide for daily use is generally between 2% and 5%, usually 2 to 3%. Higher concentrations of niacinamide of 10% to 20% are often marketed, but they typically do not provide any extra benefit, and the chance of developing contact dermatitis or localized irritation is very high, especially for those who have sensitive or reactive skin. Niacinamide is a very effective sebum regulator. Unlike other harsh treatments for acne, niacinamide works to maintain normal oil levels in the skin. This will specifically prevent excess oil from accumulating and blocking pore openings. Plus, niacinamide improves skin elasticity and increases its ability to maintain texture, so enlarged pores are minimized, and the skin's appearance improves.