1.I would tell them that if they have a variable-speed pump, that might be just fine. Running a pump 24/7 isn't always a bad thing. In fact, it may keep the pool in its best shape, which is vital for longevity. BUt if you have a single-speed pump, I wouldn't run it 24/7. 2.I think the biggest misconception people have here is that it's okay to be as minimal as possible with run time constantly. People want to save money, understandably, but there is a fine line between optimizing pump run time and simply not running it enough to maintain the pool as needed. 3.Sometimes it's just not necessary. Some pools just don't need all of that to be properly maintained, so it's a waste of resources.
Running a pool pump relates directly to our principle of Optimized Asset Utilization; excessive operation is not safety—it is inefficient waste that accelerates failure. Immediate Answer: You should run the pump only for the minimum duration required to achieve the Mandatory Water Turnover Rate and maintain chemical stability. Biggest Misconception: The biggest misconception is the belief that Continuous Operation Guarantees Superior Performance, which is a false operational assumption. Just as a heavy duty trucks engine is designed for optimal work cycles, not constant idling, a pool pump is designed for calculated periods of rest and activity. Most people incorrectly assume that 'more is always better,' ignoring the point of diminishing returns. Biggest Problem: Beyond the obvious energy cost, the biggest problem is the Accelerated Component Fatigue Protocol enforced on the motor's seals and bearings. These parts are subjected to constant friction and heat, which breaks down the OEM quality lubrication and leads to premature failure of the mechanical seal. This results in costly water intrusion and a complete, unscheduled operational shutdown of the system. We advocate for a controlled cycle to extend the operational life of the asset and prevent unscheduled capital expenditure.
I've spent 30+ years dealing with water pumps--well pumps, submersible systems, pressure pumps--and here's what I tell folks: "Run your pool pump 6-8 hours during the day, not 24/7--you're just burning money and killing your equipment early." The biggest thing people get wrong is thinking more runtime equals cleaner water. That's not how circulation works. Your pump cycles the entire pool volume in those 6-8 hours anyway. After that, you're just recirculating already-filtered water while the motor heats up with no cooling break. Here's what actually breaks: the mechanical seal between the motor and wet end fails from constant thermal expansion. We see this with well pumps all the time--customers who run them continuously because they're worried about pressure end up with seal failures in 3-5 years instead of 15-20. That seal costs $200-400 to replace on a pool pump, plus labor, and you're looking at the same repair every few years instead of once in a decade. The pressure switch issue is real too. On well systems, we replace pressure switches that cycle too frequently--same principle applies to pool timers and contactors. Components rated for 10,000 cycles will hit that in 18 months at 24/7 runtime versus 8-10 years on a proper schedule. Save yourself the service calls.
I run an electrical contracting company in South Florida, and while pools aren't my primary focus, I deal with pump motors and electrical loads constantly--from HVAC systems to industrial equipment. My one-sentence answer: "Run it 8-12 hours max unless you have specific chemistry issues, because 24/7 operation doubles your electrical consumption for zero filtration benefit." The thing nobody mentions is the electrical cost compounding. I've audited homes where the pool pump was the single largest energy consumer--worse than the AC unit. A typical 1.5 HP pool pump draws about 1,800 watts continuously. That's $130-$180 per month just for the pump in Florida's rate structure. Cut that to 10 hours daily and you're saving $80+ monthly, nearly $1,000 yearly. Here's what I see from the electrical side: motors running 24/7 create sustained heat in your panel's breaker, the disconnect box, and the wiring run to the equipment. In our South Florida climate with salt air and humidity, I've found corroded connections and burnt breaker terminals specifically on pool circuits that never shut off. The breaker never cools, so the contact points oxidize faster under constant load and heat cycling from ambient temperature swings. The smart move is adding a timer--costs $40-$80 installed. Program it for off-peak hours when electricity is cheaper anyway, and your motor gets those critical cool-down periods. I've seen pool equipment last 12+ years with proper cycling versus 6-7 years with continuous operation.
Director of Operations at Eaton Well Drilling and Pump Service
Answered 6 months ago
I've been in the water well and pump business for four generations now, and while pool pumps aren't our specialty, the principles of pump longevity are universal across every system we install. My one-sentence answer: "No--your pool pump needs off-cycles to prevent pressure buildup and component fatigue, just like any pressurized water system." The biggest misconception I see is that continuous operation equals continuous protection. In our well pump work, we actually see the opposite--systems that cycle properly last significantly longer than those that run constantly. A submersible well pump typically lasts 8-15 years with proper cycling, but we've replaced pumps in just 5-6 years when homeowners override the pressure switch to keep them running nonstop. Here's what kills pumps faster than anything: thermal expansion without relief periods. When pump components heat up and never cool down, you get seal warping and pressure switch failures. We had a farm client who kept their irrigation pump running 24/7 during growing season instead of the recommended intervals--the pressure tank bladder failed in 18 months instead of the typical 10+ years, and they flooded their pump house at 2 AM. That's when our emergency service got the call, and trust me, middle-of-the-night pump replacements are never cheap. Your pool pump's pressure switch and internal seals need those off-cycles to equalize and cool. We see this constantly in constant pressure systems--even high-end units rated for heavy use still benefit from scheduled downtime to prevent the exact wear patterns that cause emergency failures.
I run electrical systems for commercial properties and large residential builds, including setups that power pool equipment--so I've seen the backend of what constant runtime does to motors and control panels. **My one-sentence answer: "Run it 8-12 hours daily based on your pool size and bather load--24/7 operation triples your energy cost and cuts equipment lifespan in half."** The biggest misconception isn't that more is better--it's that people don't realize their pump *creates* problems when it never rests. I've diagnosed burned-out variable-speed drive controllers and overheated capacitors in systems that ran nonstop for 6+ months. The thermal cycling from constant operation degrades internal components faster than the on/off cycles most homeowners fear. Beyond the electric bill (which we've measured at $150-200/month extra in Indiana for a 1.5 HP pump), the killer issue is bearing seizure and seal failure. Motors generate friction heat that needs cooldown periods--I've replaced three pump motors in one neighborhood last summer alone where owners thought "always on" meant "always safe." The bearings dried out and the shaft seals cracked from sustained temps above 160degF, which doesn't happen with proper cycling. From an electrical load perspective, that constant draw also stresses your panel's breaker connections over time. We've found scorched terminals and loose connections behind breakers feeding 24/7 pumps--stuff that creates fire hazards way worse than a few extra daily startups ever would.
This is one of those things that depends on the type of pump you have, along with personal preference, how much you're using the pool, etc. In my experience it is more common to just choose a block of about 5-6 hours during the day to run the pump, which tends to be enough to ensure you're circulating all that water through the pump a couple of times to ensure it's staying clean and ready for swimming. I would say that the most common misconception I see with pool pumps and runtime is that the longer the pump is running, the cleaner the water will be, but really if you have a good quality pump, anything longer than that 5-6 hours is just circulating your already clean water back through the filters. Wear and tear will definitely be the biggest issue you encounter when it comes to running a pump 24/7. In my experience it does tend to be better to cut back on use since unless the pool is seeing very heavy use, you really won't tend to need longer than six hours run time a day.
I'm Mike Counsil--been a plumber for 30+ years in the South Bay, and while I focus on residential plumbing rather than pools specifically, I deal with pump systems constantly through sump pumps, sewage ejectors, and water circulation equipment in homes. My one-sentence answer: "No--continuous runtime burns out motor seals and bearings way faster than cycling does, and I've replaced pumps that should've lasted 10 years but died in 4 because they never got a break." The mechanical reality nobody talks about: pumps generate heat when they run, and that heat needs dissipation time. I see this with sump pumps in crawl spaces--homeowners who manually override the float switch "just to be safe" end up with warped impellers and burnt-out capacitors. Same principle applies. The motor windings expand when hot, contract when cool, and that cycle actually helps reseat components properly. Run it 24/7 and you're keeping everything in a constant heat-stressed state. What kills pumps isn't the on/off cycling--it's the lack of cooling periods combined with debris accumulation that never gets cleared because there's no shutdown window for inspection. I've pulled apart motors where the ventilation slots were completely clogged because the homeowner never stopped the system long enough to notice the buildup. That's when you get catastrophic failures instead of graceful aging.